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Replies (9)
- archphoto
- Contributions:8
Is it a gas or wood fireplace? Wood burners get considerably hotter than gas so that can cause problems with some tile down the road. If it is a wood burner the best solution is to either remove and replace the brick with new or build up a new veneer infront of it. This can cause some air flow issues in some cases, depends on your fireplace design. Do you know if the brick face is structurally integral with the chimney? If not removal and replacement is the best long-term solution. If it is gas you can use a wire mesh and browncoat with thinset to attach thinbrick or tile. one possible issue that can arise from this is if it gets too hot you can have tiles pop right off. I have also heard of people just glueing tile to existing brick with liquid nails but I have no idea how long it will last.
Good luck and don't be afraid to get quotes from local mason contractors, you may be surprised at how affordable brick replacement can be, especially in a down market!
Good luck and don't be afraid to get quotes from local mason contractors, you may be surprised at how affordable brick replacement can be, especially in a down market!
- J Steinberg Design
- Contributions:92
I would surely get an estimate from a local sub for this. I will probably be less than you might think to get it professionally done with a fix that is appropriate and that will last. That being said, what type of stone look do you want? A clean and mod approach would be flat tiles, such as travertine or, if you are on a strict budget, something porcelain that strikes your fancy. I would look into the difference for natural stone to porcelain or ceramic, though. Since its such a small application, going for the natural stone probably wont be that much more (granted that your fireplace is not one of those that goes floor to ceiling in the middle of a room or something). The main thing to remember is scale. Look at your fireplace, then choose the appropriate tile size based on the size of your fireplace. If its small, go 16", no bigger than 18". If its bigger, you can go 18" to 24". Your mantle usually helps determine the size of tile, too (for instance, you don't want the tile sticking out past your mantle!).
If you want a warmer and more current look- consider stacked "ledger" stone. Check out Eldorado Stone and Cultured Stone. Any sub can purchase these products, and they are usually available at local building supplier showrooms. I am working on a project right now and we are refacing the fireplace with ledger stone. Its about a $2,000 project with labor and materials. You may find better pricing, depending on your area.
If you want a warmer and more current look- consider stacked "ledger" stone. Check out Eldorado Stone and Cultured Stone. Any sub can purchase these products, and they are usually available at local building supplier showrooms. I am working on a project right now and we are refacing the fireplace with ledger stone. Its about a $2,000 project with labor and materials. You may find better pricing, depending on your area.
- LAhome
- Contributions:32
Thanks for all the advice. The fireplace is not floor to ceiling. The mantle will only be about 50" high. The house is a typical mid-century ranch style, 1700 square feet in Sherman Oaks, so I think the stacked "ledger" stone would be a little overwhelming for the room, though i also don't want it to be too boring. I'm leaning towards travertine or slate as I would like to add a little texture to it.
- Melody91
- Contributions:229
Why not write to the folks at HGTV?
Look for some similar ones that have been done to your taste and budget, and post yours asking for help.
It looks like they really LOVE to help, especially Angello S.who has the Telly Savalis shiny head, and the big smile, with lots of energy&enthusiasm. The people who write in there and post ACTUALLY seem thrilled to help out with advice as well.
You might get lots of help and be on TV too, who knows?
It's worth a try at any rate. What do you think?
Look for some similar ones that have been done to your taste and budget, and post yours asking for help.
It looks like they really LOVE to help, especially Angello S.who has the Telly Savalis shiny head, and the big smile, with lots of energy&enthusiasm. The people who write in there and post ACTUALLY seem thrilled to help out with advice as well.
You might get lots of help and be on TV too, who knows?
It's worth a try at any rate. What do you think?
- LAhome
- Contributions:32
I'll give HGTV a shot..thanks for the advice...
- Jennifer Ordawy, "Jennifer Ordway"
- Contributions:10
Hi,I can't help you with this, but I just got my house redone by this construction company they are truly good guys and very professionals, I had them coming over to give me an estimate for stucco and new driveway, they where amazing and grate prices, I paid $13 per SqFt for the stucco and that was done on 3/12/09 I don't know about other prices, but I can tell you they are the best. Three names is IZMI BUILDERS, Inc. They got website IzmiBuildersinc.com and the phone number is 310-213-3230. NOTE: be ready to wait, they are very busy but it is very much worth it …… Good Luck
- Kate Case, "Kate_HomeStager"
- Contributions:78
As long as you keep it simple and neat, you will be okay. Here is a website that shows examples of fireplaces resurfaced - http://www.homebedazzle.com/fireplace.htm . Most of the resurfaced fireplaces used a larger tile and just went right over the exisiting fireplace material. A darker, larger tile with some texture against your white mantel will give you that focal point for your room. Simple and clean lines will always work in any room. Good luck with your project.
- bamkmartin
- Contributions:104
Use dull granite or dull black ceramic tile and then paint the walls a khaki color. You can diy and you can use liquid nails to attach the tiles and then use a tinted grout.
- Darin Redding, "sdhomeinspector"
- Contributions:71
Don't use liquid nails to adhere tile. Come on folks, there are materials made for adhering tile that a DIY can work with fine.
The issue you have is tile likes to be installed on a "monolith" substrate, meaning a substrate that moves as a solid unit and does not have movement throughout the field. That's why we use concrete backerboard for tile installations, and use mesh fiberglass tape at the joints, bonded with cement based mortar. The expansion/contraction and movement is minimized which if allowed to occur kills tile installations.
So the existing brick may be a problem. You see, each of these bricks can move independently in all directions. You would be better off chisling off some of the existing motar from the face of the existing brick then applying backerboard. Positevely attach the backerboard to the existing brick with anchors every so often. Don't worry about achieving a true, level substrate. You can worry about that during the tile installation by "buttering" the backs of the tiles, to bring them in and out to achieve a plumb installation.
Pop into a local tile shop with this comment, and ask them to explain it to you. You can also call me and I'll walk you through it, it's easy really:).
17 years construction experience, general contractor, journeyman level experience in many trades, including tile.
The issue you have is tile likes to be installed on a "monolith" substrate, meaning a substrate that moves as a solid unit and does not have movement throughout the field. That's why we use concrete backerboard for tile installations, and use mesh fiberglass tape at the joints, bonded with cement based mortar. The expansion/contraction and movement is minimized which if allowed to occur kills tile installations.
So the existing brick may be a problem. You see, each of these bricks can move independently in all directions. You would be better off chisling off some of the existing motar from the face of the existing brick then applying backerboard. Positevely attach the backerboard to the existing brick with anchors every so often. Don't worry about achieving a true, level substrate. You can worry about that during the tile installation by "buttering" the backs of the tiles, to bring them in and out to achieve a plumb installation.
Pop into a local tile shop with this comment, and ask them to explain it to you. You can also call me and I'll walk you through it, it's easy really:).
17 years construction experience, general contractor, journeyman level experience in many trades, including tile.
Fireplace surround tile
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