How do you test a concrete subfloor for moisture before installing flooring?

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August 04 2009 - Louisville
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Answers (8)

Profile picture for sdhomeinspector
FlooredAgain is correct.  The calcium chloride test is key.  And yes, the big box stores have no idea about them and do not sell them (at least in San Diego).

Here's the skinny:  Say you install a glue down floor and it fails.  You seek damages and ask the flooring supplier to provide replacement (as a DIY job) or go after the contractor for damages.  Now, *chuckle* you tell the court "I tapes a piece of plastic to the slab, and didn't see any moisture!"  Nice try.  Compare that scenario with having QUANTIFIABLE data from a Calcium Chloride test.

Here the tests are inexpensive, I think about $40 each, before and after sampling the samples will need to be weighed with a scale - the type many labs would have.  Try your local Community college chemistry department for that bit..
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August 24 2009
Profile picture for Mike Hart
Both method of testing are fine, but test when there has been regular rainfall or when the ground is at its wettest.  Most areas have a rainy season, and that's when the floor will get wet if its going to.
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August 17 2009
Profile picture for Floor Coverings NY
You can use a moisture meter - they aren't that expensive.  I think mine might have cost $35-$50.  Most flooring places have them, so if you know someone who does flooring or if you have a flooring contractor ask if they can test it or if you can borrow it.

All that aside, if you are truly concerned about moisture and have had a lot of issues in the past, I would prob. stay away from hardwood and laminate floors.  Alternatively, if you are set on using those types of flooring install a moisture barrier.

www.westchester.floorcoveringsinternational.com
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August 16 2009
Profile picture for Timber Creek Const.
With a moisture meter, all the flooring company's have them.
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August 10 2009
Profile picture for FlooredAgain
Two ways to check for moisture content-basically vapor transmission through concrete slabs. One is a calcium chloride test, which is a three day test that measures transmission of moisture captured in calcium chloride crystals. The crystals are weighed on a gram scale before and after, the numbers are inputted into a formula and a number representing the number of pounds of moisture is produce per 1000 sq.ft. in 48 hours.  That will tell you how much moisture is in the slab THAT DAY. Moisture content changes is a slab. The best way is by placing moisture readers into the slab. It's usually done on commercial slabs but those readings can be taken at any time even after the floor covering is down.  See www.ardex.com.  The vapor transmission under a piece of plastic is ok but how much is allowable? Some is and most is not. There's no way to quantify how much. These two tests above can.  See a professional floor covering store for these products, not a big box store. They won't know what you're talking about.
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August 08 2009
Profile picture for MikeEmery
Just to piggyback on Carol's answer, one of the top problems I see in city mandated inspection reports is the dirt is not sloped away from the foundation or is even sloping towards the foundation. Also make sure that window wells are able to drain (either by installing drainage or making sure debris is removed). This will prevent water from collecting in basement window wells and into your nicely finished basement.

If you discover you have any moisture issues, make sure they're taken care of before installing pergo style laminate flooring as it is prone to delamination from moisture. The safer alternative would be ceramic or vinyl tile.
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August 04 2009
Profile picture for carol2468
agentblu15 is exactly correct.  Just to clarify, the plastic only needs to be 18" or so square.  Regardless of the moisture (or lack of moisture) found in the concrete, be sure all downspouts are piped so the discharge is at least 6' away from the house foundation.  Also, be very sure that all of the dirt around the foundation is sloped away from the house.  The slope should be at a rate not less than 1/2" per foot and for at least 6'.  Hopefully, the original builder installed drainage tile around the footing and damp proofed the foundation walls.  If you do find moisture, you will have to install an additional subfloor that is designed to separate the floor covering from the concrete.  That can be as simple as plywood on pressure treated sleepers or as elaborate as engineered wood with a dimpled plastic liner.
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August 04 2009
Profile picture for agentblu15
get a piece of clear plastic sheeting (like a dropcloth), lay it down on the subfloor (making sure the floor is dry when you start), and tape all the way around the edges to make it as airtight as possible, trapping just a little air inside.  Then seal the room as well as you can (close doors and windows, place towels under doors to block airspace, etc.).  Wait 24-48 hrs, then check the plastic sheeting-- if there's moisture coming through the subfloor, you'll see little beads of water on the inside of the sheeting, like condensation.  Do this right AFTER a heavy rainfall if possible, when the ground is wet.
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August 04 2009
 

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