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Answers (10)
- Pasadenan
- Contributions:21458
As others already mentioned, even if outdoors, you don't typically GFIC them, unless in or near a pool or similar. Only if there is a potential for someone to be "wet" and "in contact" with them (or water that is in contact with them) do they require to be GFIC.
As for the "fluorescent" idea? Not so good if one was intending to dim them on a dimmer. I've also seen problems with some motion sensing devises for fluorescent. Not to mention, most residential grade motion sensors are limited to 800 watts.
For pool lighting, I would look into fiber optics to provide the additional safety by keeping the electrical devices away from the pool.
As for the "fluorescent" idea? Not so good if one was intending to dim them on a dimmer. I've also seen problems with some motion sensing devises for fluorescent. Not to mention, most residential grade motion sensors are limited to 800 watts.
For pool lighting, I would look into fiber optics to provide the additional safety by keeping the electrical devices away from the pool.
- Toan Nguyen, "Toan Nguyen"
- Contributions:140
Problem most likely remedied since 2009, however here is more information. The NEC allows you to use 80 % of the potential of the circuit. So (120v x 15amp = 1800watts) - 80% gives you max allowed amperage of 1440watts. So if you have 8ea 150w par 38 bulbs you can add them up. (8 x 150w = 1200w) you would only have to gfci them if they are outdoors.
- So Cal Home Automation, "SoCal HomeAutomation"
- Contributions:16
You may be able to so long as no other loads will be on the circuit as well. If you are planning on using the circuit that is already GFI protected. Don't.
Lights on GFI's don't do well.
There are always other options consult a good electrician and have them do the work. Usually a good electrician is one that does their own work, has been licensed for 10 plus years and you can check them out with the state and they are have no complaints on their license.
Lights on GFI's don't do well.
There are always other options consult a good electrician and have them do the work. Usually a good electrician is one that does their own work, has been licensed for 10 plus years and you can check them out with the state and they are have no complaints on their license.
- AWS Electrical Solar
- Contributions:14
you can run it on the same circuit but GFI breaker doesn't make sense probably you talking about AFCI breaker.( looks the same like GFI breaker)
- goodhousehunting
- Contributions:2
why are you GFI protecting them?
out door lighting ( flood lights ) do not require GFCI protection
out door receptacles do ( that goes for garages as well )
yes you can run them on a 15 amp breaker and you have a good margin of safety
the 80% rule for a breaker depends on the load
so if you got 15 amps x 120 volts = 1800 watts x 80% = 1440 watts that you can safely load up the circuit and it will not trip. 3 hours or more is considered continious use and the 80% rule applies to constant loads, intermittant loads of the full 1800 watts are not issue, as the breaker is rated at 100% load for intermittant use ( such as a 20 amp receptacle with might actually see 20 amps for a brief period of time, thus not over heating the breaker and thus tripping). but generally lighting is figured at 80% rule to assume the worst case scenario (all light fixture on that circuit on ).
out door lighting ( flood lights ) do not require GFCI protection
out door receptacles do ( that goes for garages as well )
yes you can run them on a 15 amp breaker and you have a good margin of safety
the 80% rule for a breaker depends on the load
so if you got 15 amps x 120 volts = 1800 watts x 80% = 1440 watts that you can safely load up the circuit and it will not trip. 3 hours or more is considered continious use and the 80% rule applies to constant loads, intermittant loads of the full 1800 watts are not issue, as the breaker is rated at 100% load for intermittant use ( such as a 20 amp receptacle with might actually see 20 amps for a brief period of time, thus not over heating the breaker and thus tripping). but generally lighting is figured at 80% rule to assume the worst case scenario (all light fixture on that circuit on ).
- ThePoopingBandit
- Contributions:37
Technically, yes you can run 8x150W lamps from a 15A Breaker, IF they are the only draw on the circuit. It is not wise to do so, however. I would highly recommend looking into fluorescent PAR38 Bulbs instead. For 150W Incandescent equivalent, you're talking 18-22W per bulb, putting you at or just over the draw of a single incandescent bulb from the entire array of fluorescent. If money is no object, LED lighting to match 150W Incandescent is around 7W, with total consumption being around 1/3 of 1 incandescent from the entire array - only problem is those bulbs are not cheap - anywhere from $30ish at CostCo/Sams Club type stores to $70 or more from lighting supply houses.
HTH
TPB
HTH
TPB
- PRIORITY ELECTRIC, "ThousandOaksElectric"
- Contributions:1
1200 watts on a 15 amp breaker is ok although you may have a problem with light bulbs wired to a GFI. You could cut back to a 100w bulb and have close to the same results using only 800watts. You could also use fluorescent flood lights or a low voltage lighting system to save even more energy. Hiring a professional electrician like Priority Electric can show you how to SAFELY and efficiently light your home.
- PRIORITY ELECTRIC, "AgouraElectrician"
- Contributions:1
1200 watts on a 15 amp breaker is ok although you may have a problem with light bulbs wired to a GFI. You could cut back to a 100w bulb and have close to the same results using only 800watts. You could also use fluorescent flood lights or a low voltage lighting system to save even more energy. Hiring a professional electrician like Priority Electric can show you how to SAFELY and efficiently light your home.
- impaler603
- Contributions:4
Michael is right. One other thing though, a 15A circuit breaker will trip with an 80% constant load. If your lights are not the only thing on that circuit you will want to split it up.
- Michael Emery, "MikeEmery"
- Contributions:7298
I got this from Yahoo.
It's watts divided by volts equals amps.
Example: 1200 watts at 120 volts is 10 amps.
To get the watts if you know the amps, multiply the amps times the volts. 10 amps at 120 volts is 1200 watts
So 8 x 150 = 1200 which is divided by 120 volts = 10 amps
I am NOT an electrician. Just having fun with math. Always consult with a professional if you are not sure.
It's watts divided by volts equals amps.
Example: 1200 watts at 120 volts is 10 amps.
To get the watts if you know the amps, multiply the amps times the volts. 10 amps at 120 volts is 1200 watts
So 8 x 150 = 1200 which is divided by 120 volts = 10 amps
I am NOT an electrician. Just having fun with math. Always consult with a professional if you are not sure.
How much Wattage on a single breaker.
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