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I am considering purchasing a home that has cedar siding and brick. Is this a lot of maintenance?

Profile picture for Rayna4610
This home was built in 1971 and is located in Scenic View Subdivision close to Utica, In but in Jeffersonville, IN limits.  Is this a good area?  The river is by the house too and I wonder if mosquitos are not a problem. 
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May 13 - Jeffersonville
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I agree with the first response!
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September 20
I agree with the first answer!
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September 20
Profile picture for Pasadenan
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Since January 2009

Regarding the brick, there are two major issues to look for:
1) If a bearing wall, or used for a foundation, the older walls do not have any steel reinforcement.  This can cause some problems with structural integity in some areas, especially if prone to earthquakes are high winds.  It is hard to "retrofit" brick, and "bolting" is difficult; but it is not impossible.  You will want someone that knows structural issues to look at it.

2) The brick itself is usually not the problem, even though it can crush, crumble, and chip.  The problem is often the morter.  The morter often becomes dry and powdery, especially if a substantial amount of lime was used.  mortar used between bricks in the early 1900's through the 1920's often need "repointing".  If a screwdriver goes in easily and the morter just scapes out, you have some work to do!  Also remember, for fireplaces, you cannot use standard morter, but it needs to be designed for the heat.

Again, get someone to look at it that knows brick and morter before making any decissions, and to determine what maintenance will be required.


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May 13
Profile picture for Pasadenan
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Ceder is one of the wood that has oils that kill termites and discourage moths...  Sure, if dry-roted, or other damage, the termites will still eat it, but they will still usually die eating the one board and not go on to the next.  Heart redwood also has this advantage.  Many other woods and materials do not.

But, because of the oils in the wood, you cannot use a standard waterbased primer.  You need a oil-block primer.  Many will say "ceder&redwood block" on the can.  If you hire a painter, they may do it wrong and cause you lots of trouble with pealing paint.  Also, many try to sell you a "texture coat" finish stating it will last 40 years....; first it doesn't, and second a "texture coat" is the entirely wrong finish for a wood siding.

The biggest problem for paint on a wood siding is heat and ultriviolet light from the sun, AND wind and rain.  If you maintain a good finish on the house, it will last forever; but if you get behind and start getting cracking and peeling, it takes some work to make sure you get everything lose off before putting on good primer and finish.

Not only are all paint materials not equal, but neither are the people that prep and apply the paint, primers, caulking and spackle.  And if spackle is used, make sure it is an exterior spackle and that the wood is already primed!

Wood is good for sound and temperature insulation.  Stay away from the "pressboard" fake siding if at all possible as the glues will not hold up well to water and often formaldihyde or other toxic chemicals are used.
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May 13
Profile picture for Bette Defarm
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Mosquitos are unlikely to be a problem, they prefer standing water and even a very mild current seems to discourage them.
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May 13
I can't answer your question about the mosquitos but brick siding is one of the easiest types of materials to maintain unless it's painted brick.  Wood siding can only be a problem if you have woodpeckers, as our neighborhood does, or a termite or carpenter ant problem...
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May 13
 

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