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Answers (7)
- BungalowMo
- Contributions:232
I just did this in my bathroom. We ripped up several layers (vinyl, old 50's tile, & a black sticky tar paper like layer). Got down to original hardwood. Laid a backerboard down & from there added the thinset...then tile.
Ethan is right...the tile job will only be as good as the prepwork. Do it right & you won't regret it.
Ethan is right...the tile job will only be as good as the prepwork. Do it right & you won't regret it.
- Ethan Biederman, "HomePro Remodeling"
- Contributions:49
We all seem to be assuming that the original poster is referring to laminate flooring and a ceramic or porcelain tile so I will respond in the same vein. If you are talking about a counter or back splash BOND Boo then please clarify.
I always prefer to remove the existing flooring before installing tile because a tile job will only be as good as the prep work. Once you have stripped the floor down to the subfloor you can assess its condition and level it out and install additional screws if necessary. I then recommend that you install a layer of cement board over the sub-floor, staggering the seams. 1/4" cement board is fine if the sub-floor is very sturdy, otherwise use 1/2". I also glue the cement board down in addition to screws. Any movement of the sub-floor will result in tiles cracking. Use a fiberglass tape and thin-set mortar on the seams and you are ready to start laying tile.
Laminate flooring will usually come up very easily. It does not make an acceptable surface for tile for two reasons. It has a smooth surface so the mortar will not bond well and it moves quite a bit which will also break the mortar bond.
I hope this helps,
Ethan
I always prefer to remove the existing flooring before installing tile because a tile job will only be as good as the prep work. Once you have stripped the floor down to the subfloor you can assess its condition and level it out and install additional screws if necessary. I then recommend that you install a layer of cement board over the sub-floor, staggering the seams. 1/4" cement board is fine if the sub-floor is very sturdy, otherwise use 1/2". I also glue the cement board down in addition to screws. Any movement of the sub-floor will result in tiles cracking. Use a fiberglass tape and thin-set mortar on the seams and you are ready to start laying tile.
Laminate flooring will usually come up very easily. It does not make an acceptable surface for tile for two reasons. It has a smooth surface so the mortar will not bond well and it moves quite a bit which will also break the mortar bond.
I hope this helps,
Ethan
- Thaddeus Kuznicki, "Thaddeus Kuznicki"
- Contributions:6
In my experiences, removing a thin floor like laminate would be recommended. Although there is a bit more labor involved, you will be able to assess the condition of the floor that is currently being hidden underneath.
Also, depending on the product that you are looking to instal, many products and systems will need something more significant to adhere to.
Since this is an investment, a better instalation will not only look better, it will last longer.
And last of all, removing laminate may be a bit time consuming, but is not particularly hard to do with a few simple tools. This means that you could possibly do it yourself to help with budget concerns.
- BOND Boo
- Contributions:29
So Dan are you saying its ok to do it over laminate?
- Sarah Bond, "Sarah Bond 1"
- Contributions:131
You'll definitely want to see how much clearance there is with the floor to the door.
- Nathan Colmer, "NathanColmer"
- Contributions:257
Dan has some good advice on height. I have seen houses with multiple levels and it look bad
- Dan Sandweg, "Dan Sandweg"
- Contributions:36
You could install tile backer board over the laminate. You may want to consider the final height of the flooring as it matches to other flooring or intersections when you are finished. If you remove the existing flooring it will reducce the height of the finished flooring.
Should I remove laminate before installing tile or not?
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