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What energy efficient improvement should you do first to your house?

Everybody wants new windows. Me too! Especially with the new 2009 up-to-$1500 tax credit. But first things first. Seal the Envelope. Get an Energy Audit to find where your house leaks. And then get caulk, and mastic and insulation and seal all those leaks. People think they need windows because they feel a draft. New windows will take your heat sealing from R-1 to R-3. Insulation in your walls or attic can improve your heat sealing to R-13, 13 times the savings!!! Much more bang for the buck!
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March 27 - Philadelphia

Replies (13)

Profile picture for dansahi
Hello,
I think you are on the ball, starting with an energy audit!  Finding out how tight the envelope for the structure of your house is the place to start.Look at the history of the house . If insulated 20 years ago, then I suspect how effiecient it is. The loft in insulaton flattens out over time and is less effective. Also target all of the mechanical systems in your house and check their performance. The furnace is a huge componeant! Is it clean and running effectivly? Hot water tanks cost money. Is yours effiecient? Sometimes a re-circ pump can cut down on the wasted water while waiting for the hot water to arrive. If your house is tight, do you have fresh air coming in? I would start with the structure,then the house systems and see what the priorities are.Stay warm! 
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March 27
Profile picture for bsrice
Contributions: 20

If you are looking to do tasks that will give you the best return on investment then you should check out this great Home Remodeling list.  It has over 50 projects that you can do that will save you money, energy and the environment.

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April 04
Profile picture for JohnZito

Start with an energy audit as stated previously. Many utility companies provide this for free. If not, you should be able to find one for $200-$300 and it's well worth the money. You will earn this investment back. You should have a blower door test done, which will tell you the leakiness of the home. Your air changes per hour (ACH) should be at about 1/3 per hour (that's recommended under ASHRAE 62). If it's less than that, fantastic! But you would need mechanical ventilation. Never let anyone tell you that the house needs to breathe (from unknown sources). You want to control that breathing with mechanical ventilation.

During the blower door test, the rater should be able to show you where the home is leaking. You may be surprised. That will direct you where to put that caulk, and not just be guessing where.

They should also have an infrared imaging camera. During the blower door test (while the home is depressurized) they can go room to room and determine leaks, and heat/cold conduction.

They should also be able to do a duct blaster test. If you have forced air furnace for heating or cooling, this will tell you how leaky the duct work in the home is, and you can address those areas as well.

What all that will do for you is to give you a blueprint of which areas to focus your attention on. Then after that, have the home retested to see how much you've tightened the home up.

Good luck.



 

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April 05
Profile picture for Big Poppy
Check out GREENandSAVE.com, they have simple ROI calculators that break out what you shoudl do first.  They also have an energy audit program, I have not tried this yet as my home is so old I am startign with changing my light bulbs first...
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April 07
Profile picture for Pat Bourgo
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a HVAC contractor friend of mine told me about the geothermal units.  He told stories about houses that use very little heat.  The geothermal units don't turn on much because of the envelop.  A waste of my money.  He told me seal it good then insulate the piss out of it.  Spend extra money for more and better insulation.  If the heat turns on less it saves $$$. Install a whole house fan.  They run about $800.  This will help keep cool fresh air in the summer.  Use CFL's in the whole house to help save power and to keep the house cooler.  In the summer I get up at 3:00-4:00 in the moring to go fishing, I open windows and fill the house with cold air to reduce the a/c usage. A tankless H2O systems are great for the water also.  With the credit federally and localy the end result will cost me about $300.
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April 11
Profile picture for JohnZito
Pat,

You're absolutely right. Stay away from the big ticket items like HVAC and Windows. My HVAC guy confirms this by saying that what he puts in a house is an "accessory" to the building  I give him. If it's a leaky structure, money spent on the best windows, geo-thermal, solar, wind will all be wasted. Spending $5000 to tighten up a house and have $600 utilities for the year is better than spending $40-50,000 on Geo Thermal or Solar and having $300 utilities for the year.

It all comes down to the load of the house (how many btu's does it take to heat/cool it). How you choose to heat/cool that load is then discretionary. Lower the load first by insulating and air sealing (be wary of fiberglass batt insulation), then consider the "accessory"--the means to heat/cool..

As far as windows, the best window poorly installed (flashed, air sealed) is worse than an ordinary window properly installed. It's all in the details.
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April 11
I love this issue !
Everyone is so divided on it ! !
If you don't have dual pane windows, PUT THEM IN !
If you "SEAL" up the house to tight, your HVAC is going to be blowing dust, and you are going to be breathing it !
Make the house functional.
If your house has no attic insulation, add it.
If you are re-roofing, use the thermal backed plywood (radiant barrier) to block 90% of the heat entering the attic.
Put weatherstripping on your exterior doors.
Very simple.

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April 12
We have seen the happiest customers when they replace their leaking windows!
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April 23
Profile picture for LikeMyHouse
Here's a good how-to article on http://www.greenremodeling.org - small modifications one can make on the path to green:

http://www.greenremodeling.org/consumer/article.aspx?resourceid=16
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May 18
Profile picture for AlexShek
Of course you start with simple, inexpensive repairs first. Stopping air infiltration, adding insulation and installing double insulated windows makes a tremendous difference.
John is correct, Geo Thermal is currently expensive and probably better  for new homes build with it in mind.
Solar Hot Water however is not that expensive to begin with, but if you take into consideration all the tax incentives, it becomes very affordable and will save you about 70% of your hot water bill for many years, 25 and more (hot water is approx. 25% of your total energy expenses). ROI varies depending on the family size and the area you live in
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May 19
Profile picture for BungalowMo
I'd never replace my windows.  I have 90 yo old growth oak with wavy leaded glass.  I have recently begun the restoration process on mine & they have turned out absolutely beautiful.

When this:


Becomes this:


And the dried wood trim inside becomes this:


Why on earth would I spend thousands on vinyl when this fix cost me about 9 hours time & about $10 in materials?

"Everyone wants new windows"???  No...not everyone.
Mine have lasted over 90 years...can yours compete?

And lastly...you can't get any greener than this!  No old windows in a landfill!
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July 01
Profile picture for workabee
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Nice old window. Makes me want to go strip some paint!
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July 01
Profile picture for blacroix
Technically speaking, R13 is not 13 times better than R1.  R value is the inverse of U-Factor.  An R-Value of 1 has a U-Factor of 1.0, meaning that one BTU/hr of energy can pass through one square foot of surface area for every degree of difference between the two sides.

Therefore, R-Value of 3 would have a U-Factor of 0.333; R-value of 5 would have a U-Factor of 0.20; R-Value of 10 would have a U-favtor of 0.10.  So increasing from R1 to R2 will literally HALVE the energy transfer, decreasing U value from 1.0 to 0.5, but you can NEVER get the U-factor down to zero, so you can never save that same amount of energy again.

Good windows will have a U-Factor of 0.35 or lower (roughly R-3).  Walls with R-13 have a u-factor of 0.077.  Increasing that doesn't hurt, but it has diminishing return.  For walls and windows, it's more important that they are sealed to not allow air to penetrate them.

Basically, your money is best spent increasing insulation in the attic and sealing your home from air leaks.  After that point, if you have an old HVAC system, replace it with as energy efficient unit as you can.  You'll get a much better return there than you would by replacing windows.  Windows would actually be one of the last items on my list.  That said, we've done just about everything else and have begin replacing windows.
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July 03
 

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