Zillow Advice: Home Improvement - Quick fix for deep scrapes in hardwood floor?

If you have old growth original ...

Thu, 04 Dec 2008 19:30:00 GMT

If you have old growth original floors...do NOT use any plastics, crayons, fillers, water or anything that will ruin the floors. You don't mention how old the place is, but anyone looking for an older home will not be put off by scratches in the floor. It really is a fairly easy thing to do yourself, it just takes time & patience.

Some folks actually see that sort of thing as "character". If "you" can't repair it correctly, leave it. Any handyman (or woman) will see it as just another project on the list.

It seems likely that the ...

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 12:33:00 GMT

It seems likely that the best answer is what some already mentioned. WIKI

other methods I have heard are...

using small amounts of water in the scratch to expand the wood closer to it's original shape then apply a product sparingly to color match the scratch so it isnt as apparent. This obviously wont work for deep gouges.

I did see a home improvement show once where they used the sanded material mixed with several parts glue to fill the scratch, which worked awesome. Perhaps you could sand an area (closet?) or inconspicuous area to generate the amount of material you need. Unfortunately I can’t remember the mixture or even what kind of glue they used. Maybe you could "google" to find out more. If I remember correctly I think they mentioned this method was common in the furniture refinishing/repair industry.

Also if I were in your position I would call around locally because there are companies that specialize in wood floor repair. Perhaps you could call around and see if someone could give you an estimate to fix the scratches.

I have tounge and groove ...

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 02:09:00 GMT

I have tounge and groove installed in 1913. A relative has tounge and groove installed in 1912. Another home of a relative has tounge and groove installed in 1893. But actually for the oak floors, I have not confirmed their installation method. Since no nails are vissible, I'm assuming tounge and groove as well with the nails in the tounges prior to installing the next row. And none of the boards "wiggle" as they are all tight fitting. None of these floors are "glued".

My home was built in 1949. ...

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 23:23:00 GMT

My home was built in 1949. I'll try again !!

Mina,Am I mistaken or do ...

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 22:31:00 GMT

Mina,

Am I mistaken or do you have an older pre-1970s home? If so, it's unlikely you have some sort of composite, veneer or "interlocked" which use glue and probably just need to be a bit more aggressive in coaxing it up. I had to spend a lot of time wiggling it out, but it was definitely worth it :*)

If it is tounge & groove, ...

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 21:39:00 GMT

If it is tounge & groove, it is not only nailed, it is "interlocked". You will either need to saw or chisel. If one is really careful, it may be possible to pry out two boards by priying up where they are interlocked; but I still usually end up breaking the tounge on at least one, or worse, the top finish part of the "grooved" location.

I tried to pull a board up ...

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 21:27:00 GMT

I tried to pull a board up just to see. Didn't want to come up. Maybe it's glued.

If you do end up removing ...

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 20:53:00 GMT

If you do end up removing boards for a repair make sure the replacement wood is as similar as possible. Oil finish ages darker over time. You can't get the top coat to match that age and patina. Consequently you will need to stain the wood to match as closely as possible.

You can use a chisel and hammer to pick out the tongue and groove board if you so desire. The tools I bring to a floor repair are a chisel, hammer, nails, construction adhesive, table saw, circular saw, fein multimaster, polyurethane, stain, putty, rags, heat gun and a vacuum for clean up. Don't forget that the old floor has probably been sanded a couple times. That nice new tng you bought is going to be a 1/8 to a full 1/4 inch higher than the rest of the floor.

Turning the boards over? ...

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 20:32:00 GMT

Turning the boards over? Tongue and groove boards generally have ribbing along the bottom to increase surface pressure and minimize movement. Cutting out the boards with the scratches and staining and urethane to match is doable. The screen and recoat suggestion and price is also an excellent suggestion. As for altering aesthetics to make a sale being unethical you've pretty much put yourself at odds with the entirety of the american way.

"I believe the more you tell ...

Sun, 23 Nov 2008 20:19:00 GMT

"I believe the more you tell the more valuable the house."

PS I live in an area where colonial homes are still serving generation after generation and 'known' history is always a plus. It may not apply to other areas :*)