Is it financially prudent to pay points (discount and/or origination) to obtain a lower mortgage rate? To find that out, we need to do a ‘break even’ calculation. There are two important questions to ask before we begin the break even calculation:
1. Time Horizon – How long do you plan on living in your home?
2. Risk Tolerance – With regards to your finances, how much risk are you willing to take to gain a potential reward?
To better illustrate this point, let’s look at a hypothetical borrower and mortgage professional discussing points, loan programs, and mortgage rates.
MP (The Mortgage Professional): How long do you plan to live in your home?
Borrower A: I’d say more than 5 years, but less than 10 years
MP: What is you risk tolerance level? Meaning, are you a person that is willing to take some financial risk with a potential for financial reward, or do you prefer to play it safe?
Borrower A: I like to play it safe
MP: Then, let’s talk about a 30 year fixed mortgage. That seems to fit your situation the best I think.
Borrower A: Great. My next door neighbor’s brother said at our BBQ yesterday that he got 6.000% on a 30 year mortgage. That’s what I want … 6.000%.
MP: Okay. Today’s 6.000% 30 year fixed conforming rate would cost 2 points for a 30 day lock price.
Borrower A: Wow, 2 points. How much is that going to cost me?
MP: Based upon your mortgage amount, multiply 2%, the cost for 2 points is $6000.
Borrower A: Um, okay. That’s sounds like a lot of money. What would you recommend?
MP: Let’s do a break even calculation and compare payments/rate for 2 points, to a zero point rate
Borrower A: What is a break even calculation?
MP: A breakeven calculation will show us if it make sense to pay points or not based upon how long it takes for the investment of paying points to get a lower rate and how that compares to the mortgage payment and your time horizon for living in this home. For example:
2 points/$6000 … 6.000% / $300,000 mortgage … $1,798.65/mo P&I
Zero points/$-0- … 6.375% / $300,000 mortgage … $1,871.61/mo P&I
The payment difference between a 2 point loan and a zero point loan is $72.96/mo. Take $6000 (2 points/6.000%) and divide it by $72.96 (difference between 2 point/6.000% and zero point/6.375%) and you get 41.12. So, your breakeven is 41.12 months, or 3 years/5 months. It would take you 3 year/5 months to recover the $6000 investment (2 points) you paid in comparison to getting a zero point rate at 6.375%. So, based upon your time horizon and your risk tolerance level paying 2 points may not be too bad. The key is you would need to live in this home for at least 5 years or more to have this 2 point rate make sense. The longer you live in this home at the 6.00% rate the better your savings to investment will be.
Borrower A: So, if I pay $6000 in points for 6.000% and compare it to paying zero $$ and getting 6.375%, I save $72.96/mo and it would take me a little over 3 years to recover the $6000 in the monthly savings? What if we move in less than 3 years and I sell the home?
MP: Then, you would not fully recover the points paid for the 6.000% rate.
Borrower A: But, what if mortgage rates go down below 6.000% in the next few years? Will it make sense for me to refinance then?
MP: Maybe. If in the future you contact me my first two questions would be ‘What is your time horizon on living in your home? And, has your risk tolerance changed from our last mortgage together? Then, I would do a break even calculation again. Maybe mortgage rates would justify a refinance, but maybe not.
So, you see mortgage borrowers … it’s more than rates & points. It’s about breaking even on what you pay in points in relation to the mortgage payment you will pay. Be sure you know when you break even.
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Comments
6 Comments so far



Dan Melson
By the way, “breaking even” is not really “breaking even”
Look what happens next.
With a 6.00 interest rate, the balance is still over $5000 higher 41 months down the line than the 6.375%
If you refinance, let’s say at 5%, that’s an extra $250 per year that you’re out in cost of interest if the loan you choose today is at 6% instead of 6.375%. Not to mention points on the new loan, possibly pushing you over a cost breakpoint, etcetera.
If you sell and buy another property, the same thing applies. You have $5000 less for the down payment on the new property. This translates into $5000 higher balance on the new loan, $5000 you’re paying interest on, or $5000 you don’t have for other investments.
It is absolutely essential to do a breakeven calculation. But it is a little bit harder than described.
Michael Taylor
Dan,
Thanks for the insight. Looking at it by way of comparing principle balances between the 6.375% -0- points and the 6.000% 2 points I agree with you.
I took it out to 300 months and there’s still about a $1,000 difference in principle amounts.
However, many people look at their monthly budget outlay. House payments are a large portion of their budget. I’m stating the obvious here, I know. Many people are looking to lower their monthly mortgage payment.
I don’t advocate paying points on loans. Most of the time -0- points are the way to go. The hypothetical analogy I gave in my example shows a .375 spread. That doesn’t happen too often. Consider me a mortgage professional that is more a -0- point advocate.
Thanks again for your insight Dan.
Spencer Rascoff
Michael —
interesting post
can you point us to a good “break even calculator” on the web somewhere?
Mary Miller
Here’s a pretty straight-forward break-even calculator: http://www.zillow.com/mortgage/calculator/Should-I-pay-discount-points.htm
Brad Colvard
Michael: I don’t disagree with your basic analysis (except your math is wrong. 6,000 divided by 72.96 = 82.24 or 6 yrs, 9 months), but for your scenario, I’d assume the $6,000 is either a) sunk in discount points, or b) paid down in equity. Therefore, if I were consulting a client, I’d use $300,000 at 6.00% or $294,000 at 6.375%. The “breakeven” is much further down the timeline - 169 months! If a client doesn’t “spend” the points or pay it down, he still has the cash — presumeably in some earning investment. My ultimate return on investment: advise the client to pay 0 + 0 and take the six grand and payoff non-deductible debt.
Brad Colvard
tomdavie
Mike.
Excellent article . Easy breakdown for the homeowner or homebuyer.